Winter Chicken Care | Ultimate Guide [2025]

Dangers of a Chicken Coop Heater

Aside from the risk of a coop fire, another major concern with chicken coop heaters is what happens during a power outage. If your flock becomes acclimated to a warm coop and the heat abruptly shuts off, the sudden temperature crash can shock their system. Chickens handle cold well, but they do not handle rapid temperature swings — and in severe cases, this can be deadly.

If you decide to use a heater, use it very conservatively. Make sure it’s set to keep the coop only slightly warmer than the outside air, not to create a warm indoor environment. This reduces the threat of heater dependency and minimizes the risk of extreme temperature shifts.

It’s also essential to use only coop-rated, enclosed heating units, keep all cords protected from pecking and moisture, and mount the heater in a way that avoids contact with bedding, dust, or feathers — all highly flammable.

Now that you are aware of the risks of a coop heater, the final decision is completely up to you. Your flock, your comfort level, your choice.

In the next chapter, we’ll talk more about frostbite prevention and how to reduce cold-weather risks without relying on heat.

Chapter 4:

Chicken Frostbite

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Preventing Frostbite in Chickens

Frostbite is caused by excess moisture in the cold air, which freezes the fluid in the cells of a chicken's wattles, comb, or toes.

Everything we've talked about thus far is a good way to prevent your chickens from getting frostbite. For a refresher, the most important frostbite prevention measures are listed below.

• Reduce moisture by removing damp litter and improving ventilation
• Eliminate drafts by patching any cracks in the walls or ceiling of the coop

Make sure you are keeping an eye out for signs of frostbite on combs, wattles, and feet of your flock. The photo below shows what frostbite looks like on a chicken's comb.

Treating Frostbite in Chickens

If you spot a chicken with a pale-looking comb or wattle and the tissue is still frozen, your goal is to thaw it gently and safely. Bring the bird into a warm, quiet area and take things slow. Rushing thawing or rubbing the skin can cause deeper damage.

For frozen tissue:

• Apply a warm (not hot) cloth for about 10 minutes.
• Never rub or squeeze the area; let the heat do the work.
• Once thawed, pat dry and apply a thin layer of plain Neosporin.
• Move the chicken to a separate, draft-free space to rest and avoid flock pecking.
• Offer warm water or electrolytes if the bird seems stressed.

Sometimes frostbite is only noticed after the tissue has already thawed on its own. In that case, the comb or wattles will look swollen or puffy. The damage is already done, but you can still help the bird heal comfortably.

For already-thawed frostbite:

• Gently apply daily Neosporin to keep the skin protected.
• Keep the chicken isolated until swelling goes down and the tissue stabilizes.

As the area heals, the frostbitten portion will gradually darken, dry out, and eventually fall off naturally. It won’t grow back, so it’s important to let this process happen on its own. Avoid trimming or picking at the tissue; forced removal can cause bleeding, pain, and infection.

We don’t share this to worry you — only to highlight how important prevention is. With good ventilation, dry bedding, and solid wind protection, frostbite becomes much less likely in the first place.

Now let’s turn to a much more cheerful topic: keeping feed & water flowing through winter!

Feeding Chickens in the Winter

During the winter, chickens use more energy to stay warm in the wintertime. They need to eat more carbs and protein so their bodies are working to create energy, which creates internal heat. 

Increasing your chicken's protein level in their feed to 18% will help provide your chickens' with more energy to produce internal heat during cold winter. Higher protein (18% vs 16%) helps birds maintain body condition in cold weather. Protein supports feather regrowth, muscle repair, and overall energy balance.

Carbs are converted into energy faster than protein, which is why scratch is a popular morning or evening snack. Morning time for internal heat until birds are warmed by radiant heat from the sun and evening time to boost body heat while perching through the night.

If you feed your chickens scratch, make sure scratch (or other treats) do not comprise more than 10% of their total diet.

This is also a great time to ensure your flock has free-choice grit and oyster shell available.

• Grit helps them break down those extra winter carbs and scratch grains.

• Oyster Shell keeps eggshells strong during colder months, when nutrient absorption can dip.

Both are simple additions that support digestion and healthy laying all winter long.

READ: Ultimate Chicken Feed Guide

Heated Chicken Waterers

Chickens need to have access to water all day, which can be tough to provide in the winter when temperatures drop below freezing. If your chicken's water is freezing, it's best to get a water heater of some sort in order to avoid water deprivation.

A heating pan or an immersion heater are two common types of water heaters. The other option is to just buy a waterer that plugs in to control the temperature of the water. 

If you want to learn more about chicken waterers, check out our Chicken Waterers Guide for DIY plans and our recommendations for waterers to purchase online!

In the final chapter, we'll discuss a few routine management pointers for wintertime care.

Chapter 6:

Molting Chickens & More

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Molting Chickens

Once a year, chickens lose and regrow their feathers. This process, called molting, typically begins at the end of summer or early fall and lasts 14 to 16 weeks.

Chicken's feathers are 85% protein, so when their bodies are in the process of growing new feathers, they need more protein to help them through it. This also explains why their laying rate slows down. Nutrients are being repurposed into producing new plumage instead of producing eggs.

You can help your hens through this process by switching their feed to 18% protein and giving them mealworms as supplemental protein. Mealworms are rich in amino acids, which are needed during the molt.

Keep reading to learn more about what to feed chickens in the winter.

Egg Laying in the Winter

As daylight decreases in the winter, chickens naturally lay fewer eggs or stop laying altogether. This period of time gives hens a break and a chance to recharge. 

If your chickens are valued pets in your life, let nature take its course and make peace with no fresh eggs this winter. Your chickens will be less stressed and more physically healthy when they can take a break from laying. 

The reason hens are wired to stop laying eggs in the winter is because their offspring would not be able to survive in those weather conditions. The more you know!

If you are raising chickens for the sole purpose of eggs and want them to keep laying, you'll need to augment daylight. In most parts of the United States, total daylight hours start to go below 15 in September. 

The chart below illustrates how many extra hours of light are needed each month to maintain 15 hours of light.

Your chickens will also need to eat more food than usual to help them stay warm and produce eggs during the winter.

Winter Boredom Busters

Chickens spend a lot more time in the coop during the winter to stay warm. As you can imagine, this gets pretty boring for them. To keep your chickens entertained and out of trouble, try some of these ideas below.